We've had good weather in the and have climbed ourselves to exhaustion. There are now new, bolted routes in the Dolomites, taking advantage of areas which are perfectly climbable but there's just no way of adding much mobile protection. There still seems to be a bit of a war of some local, anti bolt guys... Continue Reading →
Wandering Around With a Rope
So normally, my partner and I choose a rock climb based on how difficult it is, its orientation (facing the sun or not) and various other things. I've never had to fit my brain into the psychology of the folks who climbed a route for the first time. We did a Demetz/Glück route on the... Continue Reading →
The Balls
There are many expressions with balls: dropping them, not having any, keeping them rolling, waiting for them to drop, wax ones, etc. I was supposed to be climbing with seven friends this weekend. Instead I was climbing with four, because two of them dropped the ball. One sort of had an excuse, but the other... Continue Reading →
Weekend Report
Friday climbing: my partner tried a pitch in an indoor gym and didn't find the full-on, put-your-arms-down-pull-out-the-cell-phone-and-order-a-pizza places to take a natural rest. I mean, there were places you could stop climbing and put your hands in your pockets and just stand there, on the wall. He just kept going, getting more and more tired... Continue Reading →
Moove your cow, and your mind will follow. 